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Northern Gardening with Mary Wright: Seasonal plants

This time of year there are several seasonal plants in the stores to cheer us during the cold winter months. Christmas cactus, Amaryllis (Hippeastrum), Azaleas, and, especially, Poinsettias.

This time of year there are several seasonal plants in the stores to cheer us during the cold winter months. Christmas cactus, Amaryllis (Hippeastrum), Azaleas, and, especially, Poinsettias. 

The first thing to do with your new plant is to remove the shiny wrapping or to punch holes in the bottom and fold down the top. The wrapping prevents proper drainage and limits air circulation. 

Christmas and Thanksgiving cactus were discussed in a previous article.

Amaryllis are available as bulbs, kits containing the bulb, pot and soil, and potted plants. To plant a bulb, the pot only needs to be slightly wider than the bulb, and deep enough to allow roots to grow. The top one-quarter to
one-third of the bulb should be above the soil. I prefer to use a larger, heavier pot because the plant can be very top-heavy and can easily topple over.

After flowering, continue watering and feeding the plant regularly. It can be kept in a bright window indoors or outside for the summer. In the fall stop watering and allow the leaves to die. If it is outdoors, bring it in before it is exposed to frost. Store the bulb in a cool, dark place for a few weeks, then repot to restart the bloom cycle. Keep in mind this is a poisonous plant.

Azalea flowers should last a few weeks. They like a cool, consistent temperature, so do not place them near a heat source. They need bright light and humidity. Daily misting will keep them looking healthy and prevent leaf drop.

Poinsettias come in a variety of colours and forms. To keep your poinsettia healthy and colourful for a long time, give it as much natural light as possible, away from any heat source and away from drafts. The soil should be kept slightly moist, but not wet. The “flowers” are bracts, coloured petal-like leaves. The true flowers are small, in the centre of the bracts. 

To get your poinsettia to bloom again, thin and cut back by one-half in late February/early March, then water only every two weeks.  Once new growth starts, repot the plant, water regularly, and fertilize once a week. Thin again and pinch back to keep it from getting leggy. 

Starting six to eight weeks before desired bloom time (or now, for later bloom if you have a healthy plant from last year), cover the plants to provide total darkness for 14 to 15 hours at night, bringing it out for nine to 10 hours of bright light during the day. This may require grow lights to provide sufficient light. With these conditions the plant will reward you with coloured bracts. Just remember the hours of darkness must be absolute – no stray light and no interruption with light.

Poinsettias have a reputation of being poisonous, but numerous scientific studies have shown this is not true. Even when not poisonous, it is not a good idea for children or pets to eat any houseplant.

Horticulturalist Mary Wright has lived in Denare Beach for over 20 years. She shares her passion for gardening with Flin Flon readers in The Reminder.

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